
The Kingdom of Tonga, in Western Polynesia, is an independent nation comprised of 170 low coral islands scattered over roughly 250,000 square miles of ocean.
(It’s perhaps no surprise that 128 of Tonga’s islands are uninhabited.) Tonga’s islands are themselves relatively small, covering only 250 square miles, and are divided into four geographic groups.
From north to south, they are the Niuas, Vava’us, Ha’apais and Tongatapus. Among these, those in the Vava’u group are best known for sailing.
Tonga lies roughly two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand in the South Pacific, just across the international dateline, between latitudes 15 and 23 S. and longitudes 173 and 177 W.
Tonga is a constitutional monarchy ruled absolutely by HRH King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV.
Like most Tongans, he speaks English although they are always delighted when you greet them with Malo e lelei!
Occasionally you'll find someone who knows a smattering of Japanese or German, but it's English that makes it possible for most visitors to get around and get to know natives.
WEATHER AND SAILING CONDITIONS
The sailing season starts in April or May and runs through October or November, when most cruisers head for Australia or New Zealand to avoid possible hurricanes.
Mild temperatures and steady trade winds blowing in a southeasterly direction at a constant 13-18 knots all year 'round, make sailing here a delight. Occasionally, northwest winds blow, which will normally shift to the south within twelve hours or so
Temperatures are mostly in the 70s during the day; it can get slightly cooler at night. Even when temperatures climb into the 80s, though, the trades will keep you cool. Expect refreshing tropical showers most afternoons.
Ashore, islanders dress modestly and expect tourists to do the same.
Women are advised to cover their shoulders and wear a long skirt or pants, although a colorful length of cloth wrapped around your waist and covering your knees – Polynesian pareu style – should suffice.
Tongan law, in fact, even prohibits men from walking around topless!
Onboard, naturally, you can dress as you like and will most likely get by in shorts and t-shirts with a light sweater thrown on in the evenings. Foul weather gear is usually not needed.
WHERE TO SAIL
Vava u Group
The Vava'u group is made up of 71 islands, with at least 50 good anchorages. Most of the islands are uninhabited.
'Yachties,' as the natives refer to sailors, make the main island of Vava'u home base, anchoring in the deep and protected Port of Refuge Harbor.
The township of Neiafu overlooks the harbor and provides topside amenities. You could spend days sailing from here, on day sails or longer trips and never get bored.
The Vava’u Group offers an amazing selection of destinations. One of the most spectacular locations shows up on local charts as “Anchorage 13.”
The coral there is so colorful and alive you can enjoy it from your boat – snorkeling or diving here is truly delicious – a must see!
If you're chartering, your hosts will help you plan an itinerary. If you've come on your own boat, hang out at the Paradise Hotel in Neiafu during cocktail hour for advice from the old hands.
Ha api Group
The Ha'api Group lies about 75 miles south of Neiafu and can be reached in almost 24 hours of sailing (in most conditions).
The Ha’api is made up of low, coral islands and must be approached with caution. Arriving in the early afternoon gives you the best chance of seeing the coral heads that can tear up your boat. Make sure you have a good chart!
That said, many of the islands there have wonderful sandy beaches making a cautious approach worthwhile. If you like to see wonderful shells, you'll find a never-ending selection here.
The best anchorage is Pangai on Lifuka Island.
A small store – stocked only with the basics – sells freshly baked bread and a nameless hamburger stand draws in passers-by with its wonderful aromas.
The Pangai museum is fun, and run by a woman who is a classic ex pat – spend some time with her if you can.
Foa Island has a small resort that’s great for meeting other adventurers and sharing a drink or two. You can get dinner if you order in advance.
On the north end of the island there’s an anchorage, but watch out for the coral heads, they abound! In fact, it can make more sense to anchor on Ha'ano to the north and travel south by dingy – still watching for 'bricks' of course.
Ha'afeva is a coral island that lacks the wonderful beaches, but has a decent anchorage with a sturdy boat dock for your skiff.
The village, on the other side of the island, is surrounded by a fence that keeps in the pigs. Keeping the pigs close to home is another Tongan tradition, particularly in small towns.
Many of the anchorages in the Ha'api Group haven't been charted, so with a bit of gentle poking around you're likely to find yourself the only boat in the area – a classic South Pacific experience.
Tongatapu Group
Tongatapu is the southernmost island group. Its namesake island is Tonga's biggest and is host to the country's capital, Nuku'alofa, and the royal family
Whale watching
From June to November, humpback whales congregate and breed in the waters off the island of Hunga in the Vava'u Group.
The whales are protected, and organizations offering tours must be licensed. It's tempting to sail off in pursuit of whales when you've got your own boat, but it's not recommended simply because too many boats upset their mating and feeding.
Many companies offering whale watching excursions
Kayaking
Kayaks can get you up close and personal to both islands and sea life in a way no bigger or motored boat can.
SCUBA diving
Divers will find humpback whales (June-November), spinner dolphins, turtles and a bounty of colorful reef fish in the waters off Tonga.
In Port Refuge Harbor on Vava'u, divers can visit the wreck of the 123-meter long Clan McWilliam. The boat burned and sank in 1927 and sits in 20 meters of water.
In addition, in the Ha'apai Group (which is home to two volcanoes) divers can explore underwater caves and in the Vava'u Group hearty snorkelers can check out Swallows Cave and Mariners Cave.
Deep sea gamefishing
Anglers can try for marlin, mahi mahi, spearfish and tuna in the waters along the northwest coast of Vava'u
Golf
Tonga's only golf course -a nine-holder - is found in near the airport on Tongatapu at the Tonga Golf Club. Green fees are quite reasonable (under $5), but you must bring your own clubs.
Feasts
Feasts are native tradition that goes back to antiquity.
You'll be treated to native food (barbequed pig and fish), song, and often Kava Kava.
Kava Kava is a native brew made from a root that has produces a slight high. It's an integral part of native ceremonies and if you're invited to partake, it's all part of the experience.